This winter, I’m parking in northern Oregon, where the temperatures range between 20°-40°F. When it came time for me to create a Tiny House skirt, I considered several options, including: straw, snow, canvas and foam.
Straw bales are bulky, expensive and weather terribly. Snow is only a temporary skirting option; I used this method last year in Colorado. Canvas skirts are custom made, so they are expensive. Finally I decided the most best choice for my situation was to create a Tiny House skirt using rigid foam.
My Rigid Foam Tiny House Skirt
I was pleasantly surprised at how cheap and easy it was for me to make a rigid foam skirt for my Tiny House. The cost was $72, and total labor time was 6 hours. Below I’ve listed my materials and step by step process.
My Tiny House is on a 20 foot trailer with about 16-22 inches of space between the trailer and the ground. A longer trailer, or one higher off the ground, will require more material.
- 5: Sheets of 1/2″ x 4′ x 8′ Rigid Foam
- 2: Cans of black spray paint
- 1: 60 yard roll of black duct tape
Rigid foam is readily available at hardware stores and online. I was able to save money by purchasing some of my foam sheets at Habitat for Humanity. Sheets at Habitat were $1.50 compared to $12.95 at Home Depot. That’s big savings!
Make sure you purchase the rigid insulation. Floppy insulation cannot withstand a windstorm.
How to create this skirt: Step by Step
Step 1: Spray paint your foam boards. This is a personal preference, but I didn’t like the look of silver foam boards. I painted my boards black to match my trailer. Unfortunately, I didn’t do this before attaching them to my trailer. Do as I say, not as I do!
Step 2: Measure the space between your trailer and the ground. The measurements will vary, so continue to check before every cut. Cutting around the wheels is tricky work, so I decided to skip skirting my wheels because my climate isn’t that cold.
tep 3: Cut the board to size. It was easy to cut my 1/2″ boards using a utility knife and a straight edge. I made sure to cut around vents that need to be exposed.
Step 4: Attach the board to your trailer. Using black duct tape, I attached my boards to my trailer and to each other. I buried the bottom of the boards into the ground, or placed rocks in front of them to secure them in place. Sometimes I put a few nails through the foam into the wood trim around my trailer. Use your best judgement to attach the boards as sturdily as you can.
Optional: Add cedar lattice and trim
In order to improve the look, I added cedar lattice and trim in front of my foam skirt. Aside from aesthetics, the lattice does a great job of holding my foam boards in place. Similar to creating the foam skirt, this process entailed measuring and cutting the lattice to size. I used a hand saw and a finish nail gun to attach the lattice and trim around my trailer. As with the foam, I cut around vents and my wheel wells. This additional step cost another $64.